Saturday, 10 December 2011

Iguazu Falls

8/12

In standard Argentine fashion the train workers were striking so there was a replacement bus service for the same price. I had to wait three hours for it but it was ten times more comfortable than the train would have been and I still saved money, worked out rather well actually.

The falls were... truly mindblowing. I have never seen something before that was literally breathtaking, but when I caught my first glimpse of the falls I actually caught my breath a few times, and that's making a serious statement.

Inpossibly vast swirls of water swim lazily to the edge of the precipice then hurl themselves downwards in violently furious cataracts, while birds swoop through the misty haze below and butterflies hover around your head. Indiana Jones would feel at home here. I spent the day with two fun Columbian girls that I had met in a hostel the night before and we all agreed it was one of the most incredible things we had ever seen. None of us wanted to leave. Something about being near the falls just... makes you happy. One of the most incredible days of my life.

For the first time in maybe ever, words fail me and trust me, photos do not do justice to this spectacular wonder. Believe the hype. Go see it.

9/11

So I'm sitting on a bus on my way to Campo Grande. Somehow I am now in Brasil. I bought a ticket on the spur of the moment this morning, the seller told me only two things, Foz do Iguazu and leave no later than 2:30. Turns out apparently the bus leaves from Foz do Iguazu which is another city across the border in Brasil. I had to take a colectivo from Puerto Iguazu through customs, arrived at some place the driver had (I think) told me was the central bus station but my micro was nowhere to be found. I managed to surmise after several utterly baffling conversations with locals that the international bus station was way out of town. Brasil is an hour ahead of Argentina so at this point I was running a little low on time.

Arriving in Brasil is... frustrating. Portugese is just enough like Spanish for me to THINK I understand what someone is saying, until they reach the end of their sentence and I realise I have absolutely no idea what a single word meant. I'd only just started to get a good grip on Spanish comprehension and now I am back to square one. Doh! I open my mouth and spanish comes out but all I receive are bemused looks of incomprehension. Typically nowhere accepts Pesos and I don't have any Brasilian money so I have to find a cash point, run back, throw myself and my bags onto a crowded, hot colectivo at the last minute and pray that it takes me to the bus station.

I managed to make myself understood to the guy sitting in front of me by jabbing furiously at a map and grunting, he told me to get off at the next stop. Not sure if he was being helpful or just wanted me to leave, but as luck would have it the next stop did indeed lead me to the international bus station and I had half an hour to spare before my micro left.

The ordeal wasn't over - I was waiting in line, tired dischevelled and looking forward to sitting down for a while when I was assaulted by two Brasilian soldiers with guns. They pushed through the crowd and made a beeline towards me whereby they started yammering furiously and pointing at my crotch. I took off all my bags but they still weren't satisfied until they had looked inside my money belt. No idea if they were checking for guns or drugs or what but in answer to your question, yes I did poop myself a little. Maybe it had something to do with when I had whipped off my shorts in public five mintues earlier in order to pull on a pair of jeans. Hey, those South American buses are SERIOUSLY cold, they seem to all set the aircon at minus five degrees and I wasn't about to spend another journey shivering my nuts off.

I'd like to take a moment at this point to express my gratitude. I am so lucky it brings me almost to tears, my education (not just school, I mean generally) has been exceptional and I am armed with all the tools I need to get wherever I want to go in life. I live an exciting existence, from one breathtaking moment to the next, I ride an emotional rollercoaster with only my guitar and a guidebook for company. Everywhere I go I meet amazing people. I appreciate the gift I have been given and want to grab every opportunity I can so I don't waste it.

We have stopped at a station and my next bus hasn't shown up. I would have absolutely no idea what is going on, everything is spat at me in brutally unintelligable Portuguese. Luckily I ended up sitting next to a gorgeous Brasilian chick who speaks a little english. I had already chatted to her for a while and she was happy to take on the role of translator for me and made sure I got on the correct bus with her. Thank Christ, I would never have figured it out on my own, if she hadn't helped me I'd probably still be stuck in a bus station somewhere.

10/12

Arrived in the bus terminal at Campo Grande this morning. Wandered out in a daze, absolutely no idea where I was. Managed to hitch a lift into town with this really cool Brasilian dude who spoke a little Spanish. My first time hitchhiking! He dropped me off right at the tourist office, I offered him money but he refused to take it so I gave him my sincere thanks and a pat on the shoulder and he was off. Now I gotta look for a tour of the Pantanal with a reputable operator. This is one of the most ecologically diverse areas on the planet and I want to take full advantage. I know they do river snorkelling here as well which frankly has me creaming my pants at the thought, so time for me to get off the computer and sort out a tour! Hasta Luego!

4 comments:

  1. So glad you wrote up your blog, I was beginning to get a little worried as not heard a dicky bird from you for 3/4 days. as long as you just say I'm ok every other day (if u can0 it just puts my mind at rest. Well, sounds like you are doing some tue travelling. Very impressed as I think when we went most places did speak english. Your blog is amazing, please keep it up. The experiences you are having are truly life affirming. Not a good idea to ever reveal what is under your t shirt especially in full public view on a railway station! Are you down loading all your photos, just in case you lose your camera? Joe should have done. Hows the money panning out. I will ask ian for your bank details and pop some money in there for you for Christmas. DO take care, I can't help but worry a bit. Carrry on having a good time, you've worked for it, enjoy it. You will come back seeing the world in 3D, as opposed to mosr people who see it in 2D. Love you and miss you. mum xxxx

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  2. Another language on your "to learn" list then!

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  3. Where do you sleep at night?


    -Tom

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  4. Tom:

    It varies. In Buenos Aires I was staying with couchsurfer hosts. Right now I am in a hostel, when I take the busses often they are overnight so I sleep on those.

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